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Compagnie Polynesienne de Transport Maritime story and photos by George A.J. Baker reprinted from November/December 2006 TravLtips |
As a TravLtips member I have traveled vicariously
aboard many ships-large and small-to some pretty exotic destinations
around the world. Although I enjoyed many of these voyage accounts,
the appeal of most remain of the armchair variety. The exception,
however, were the rave accounts of travel aboard the Aranui
to the magical Marquesas Islands. From the very first account
I was hooked.
The decision was finally made. TravLtips Reservation Department
was contacted and arrangements were made with their helpful staff.
Finally, on April 6, 2006, we boarded our Air Tahiti Nui flight
in Los Angeles. Upon boarding, each passenger was welcomed with
a fragrant tiare flower and a warm smile-we were in Polynesia
before we even took off!
My wife and I are fortunate to have traveled extensively, at home
and abroad. We both enjoy the same styles of travel and destinations.
Where we differ is in the amount of preparation we each undertake
before our actual departure. While I revel in hours of library
and Internet research, to the point where I could almost personally
lead the tour, my wife will turn to me as the "fasten seatbelts"
sign is extinguished and say, "Where are we going this time,
George?"- Well, almost.
My reading list included Herman Melville, Robert Louis Stevenson,
Thor Heyerdahl, Nevil Shute, and Larry McMurtry's delightful Paradise-an
account of his trip on the Aranui 2. I even watched an
episode of "Survivor Marquesas" and the quite dreadful
Warren Beatty and Annette Bening movie Love Affair, just
to see the section filmed aboard Aranui 2.
As our departure day approached I began to wonder if I had set
myself up for a big disappointment. Maybe my wife's approach was
the right one after all-what she didn't know would not disappoint
her.
We've been back almost a month now; long enough for the whole
experience to sink in. I am glad to report that, not only was
the trip NOT a disappointment, it surpassed all expectations.
Let me tell you why.
The Ship
There's no ship quite like the Aranui 3. She's not
your traditional freighter or traditional passenger ship but a
clever hybrid designed to handle an amazing assortment of cargo.
Our outbound load included grocery supplies (I spotted frozen
chicken from Washington state), enough beer and soft drinks to
slake the thirst of every Marquesan for three weeks, fuel, a tractor
and a truck, six rather baffled looking cows and assorted building
supplies. On our return we carried the traditional cargo of copra,
barrels of noni fruit for eventual processing by the Morinda Group
in Utah, as well as fish, fruit and local handicrafts destined
for the gift shops of Papeete. The process of loading and unloading
was amazing to behold-a veritable industrial-strength ballet minus
the music.
We, the human cargo, occupied the aft section in air-conditioned
and comfortable accommodations. All standard cabins had a porthole
while larger suites came with windows and balconies. Our standard
double cabin on A Deck was a marvel of space-saving design with
enough closet, drawer and cubbyhole space to satisfy the heaviest
packer. Common areas consisted of a bright and airy dining room,
with tables of four, eight and 12 and a comfortable lounge featuring
bottomless coffee and tea with cookies in the afternoon. There
were meeting rooms and an infirmary. A small gymnasium at the
waterline was a real blast; my favorite workout was riding the
forward-facing stationary bike beside the portholes, which simulated
the thrill of actually riding on water at great speed (14 knots
at the waterline can be exhilarating).
The gymnasium was shared by crewmembers, most of whom concentrated
on the bodybuilding equipment to get in shape, no doubt, for the
passenger-lifting duties that lay ahead-more about that later.
The biggest surprise was the amount of deck space available: with
plenty of open space for the sun-worshippers and enough shaded
spots for those of us more respectful of the powerful equatorial
sun. The freshwater swimming pool and the bar were the two most
popular places aboard the ship, especially after a hot and energetic
day ashore. The deck overlooking the cargo area was usually full
of camera and binocular-toting passengers when approaching a new
island. The cargo area, however, was strictly out-of-bounds to
us, for safety reasons. The only exception was on the last morning
sailing through the narrow passage into Rangiroa Lagoon. Passengers
were allowed to visit the bow area to enjoy the antics of five
large porpoises as they dipsy-doodled around our bulbous cruiser
bow-what a joyful escort!
The bridge was always open to passengers, and the crew on watch
was happy to welcome us and answer our endless questions. The
Aranui 3, built in Romania in 2002, boasted all the latest
navigational and safety equipment. At sea, our vessel steamed
along on autopilot at a sedate 12 to 14 knots. Standing high up
on the bridge wings one could truly appreciate the lonely immensity
of the southeast Pacific Ocean-certainly not one of the heavily
traveled corners of the globe. That in itself was one of the great
attractions of this particular sea voyage-the feeling that one
was very much taking a "road less traveled."
 The 386-foot Aranui
3 can accommodate up to 200 passengers on 15-day voyages
round trip from Papeete to the Marquesas and Tuomoto Islands. |
 The Aranui 3 docked in the sheltered harbor at Ua Pou. Our author took this photo after a 40-minute climb to a hilltop outlook. |
The Passengers
Our 116 passengers on this voyage were fairly representative,
I gather, of Aranui 3's typical passenger makeup. Approximately
two-thirds came from France or from the outposts of France, quaintly
named France-Outre-Mer (France overseas). Then, in descending
order, the rest came from Germany, Switzerland, USA, Britain,
Canada and four other European countries. The languages used in
announcements and briefings were French, German and English.
It did not take long, both aboard and ashore, before we, the English-speaking
minority, got increasingly more courageous and liberal with our
bonjours, mercis, s'il vous plaits and combiens?
The smiles and general bonhomie that these few words generated
was well worth the effort. With a few exceptions, most worldly
Europeans come to your rescue with their excellent English, should
you get too bogged down. The common denominator among our passenger
list was being well traveled, curious and adventurous.
The ship was just over half full, which happily resulted in faster
meal services and effortless shuttles ashore. There were virtually
no waits to board the whaleboats-the bane of passengers on those
monster cruise ships plying the Alaskan Inner Passage, Mexican
Riviera or Caribbean.
The Crew
Once again I must compare the Aranui 3 with traditional
cruise ships. In my experience, a ship's crew and hotel staff
is not an aspect one usually remembers best about one's trip.
On the Aranui 3, however, the ship and the crew who sail
aboard her are one and the same.
It's hard to distinguish officers from crew since neither wears
a uniform. Shorts, T-shirts and sandals are the common dress.
Many crew members sport dramatic Marquesan tattoos across their
bodies. Mahalo, chief crane operator, was a magnificent specimen-
A veritable walking tattoo canvass-with intricate designs covering
most of his body, and half his head.
All crewmembers are Polynesian. The exception was two effusive
Romanian officers. During two "open-houses" Nedo, the
chief engineer, conducted a tour of the engine room and George,
the electronics officer, described the workings of all the "bells
and whistles" on the bridge. Both men appeared to have come
with Aranui 3 as standard equipment and seem reluctant
to leave.
Our three multilingual tour guides tirelessly and cheerfully handled
the daily briefings, shore excursions and all communication with
passengers. Most had been on both Aranuis for many years
and were human encyclopedias about the human and natural history
of the Marquesas. Two of the guides were French and the third
came from Belgium. When speaking English they all managed to sound
like Maurice Chevalier, which added to their charm.
The crew was a versatile lot for their "other related duties"
included having to sing and dance. Some of them belonged to the
Aranui band and performed almost nightly at the bar while
others, both men and women, danced for us either poolside during
the dress-up fête or several times in the dining room.
As far as many passengers were concerned, the most important members
of the crew were the whaleboat operators who often lifted us on
and off these bobbing whaleboats during the numerous wet and dry
landings. While Aranui 3 tied up dockside four times during
the whole trip, the rest of the time we had to shuttle ashore
on barges or whaleboats, our lives, cameras and knapsacks in the
hands of these "gentle giants."
Regardless of our ages, fitness or sizes they gauged the exact
moment of the vessel's bobbing up and down to shout "now"
and pass us safely from one to another. I have to admit that I
was a little nervous before my first transfer but it became old
hat in very short order. Regardless of the state of the sea we
kept our clothes and equipment dry.
Much of the material written about this ship talks about the Aranui
family. How right they were! It didn't take long before we knew
the names of most of the crew, exchanged gifts and had photos
taken with them. At the final dinner we were even encouraged to
invite crewmembers to join our table. While there was a scramble
to get to the more popular ones, I must say I felt a little sorry
for the ones not asked. Since members of the serving staff were
asked, several passengers actually volunteered to serve the dinner.
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Shore Excursions
Unlike regular cruises, our shore excursions were included
in the price of the ticket. The only "extras" were horseback
riding and scuba diving. Being involved in the tour business myself
I was most impressed by the thought and effort that went into
these excursions.
The night before each island we were strongly encouraged to attend
a half-hour briefing in the lounge. There, we were advised about
times, what to wear, what to take along, about the various local
transportation options and, most importantly, where and when we
would be fed. Later, we picked up handy printed itineraries confirming
everything we had been told along with a simplified town map.
On some islands we traveled in a squad of four-wheel-drive vehicles
or in quaint Polynesian buses called "Le Trucks." Many
of us chose to walk from the landing site into town. Quite often,
longer hikes were taken to view restored archeological sites where
our knowledgeable guides gathered us in language groups to explain
the significance of the sacrifice platforms, tikis and sacred
banyan trees. The most energetic of the group chose to undertake
the infamous 12-mile hike across the spine of Fatu Hiva. Since
there was no turning back once you started, it was a hardy few
who chose this option. On their return they were hailed as the
true "Marquesan Survivors." A proud lot they were too.
While not to belittle the food aboard the Aranui 3, most
of the passengers I spoke to agreed that the most memorable meals
of the trip were eaten ashore. In a few cases they consisted of
buffet picnics prepared and served by Aranui crew. One
picnic was served in a covered shelter atop the highest point
on Nuku Hiva, a place affording a stunning view of a very tiny
Aranui 3 miles below us unloading its cargo.
On three islands, lunch was enjoyed at the local restaurant where
our three guides introduced us to the delicacies of the Marquesas;
this is where, for the first time, many of us experienced poisson
cru, breadfruit, shellfish and roasted goat and pork barbecued
in an underground earthen pit. For dessert we were offered a rainbow
of fresh fruit and cooked bananas-delicious.
One topic that came up regularly in my pre-trip reading was the
pesky "nonos" of the Marquesas. These almost invisible
black-fly-type insects have a fearsome reputation for inflicting
painful bites that itch and fester for days to come. Every account
I read suggested different ways to combat this little bugger from
lathering on deet or local coconut oil to coating oneself in Avon
Skin-So-Soft and wearing long trousers and long sleeved shirts.
It turned out that nonos only inhabit Nuku Hiva and a few specific
parts of other islands and only in sunny weather. We should not
have worried so much. At our evening briefings the big question
was always, "Is tomorrow going to be a nono or no-nono island?"
The Marquesas Islands and the Tuamotus are known respectively
for their handicrafts and black pearls. Every opportunity was
provided during each island visit to "shop till we dropped"
if we so wished. Shopping, Marquesas-style, was a pleasant surprise.
The islanders sitting behind their little handicraft tables full
of wood and bone carvings, shell and seed bracelets and necklaces
and tapa artwork were very low key and non-pushy. They smiled
and thanked you for just stopping to look. Unlike other parts
of the world where you avoid making eye contact for fear of being
pestered until you buy something out of sheer desperation.
Some of the children sat on the ground offering a small display
of pretty shells for sale or barter. They appeared rather surprised
and delighted when we actually bought something. We were also
totally charmed by the stunningly beautiful Marquesan children
practicing their newly minted English on us. After asking if we
spoke English they would usually follow with a breathless, "What's-your-name/how-old-are-you?"
It was hard not to fall in love with them. Other than being asked
if we had any "bon-bons," we never saw any form of outstretched
hands or begging.
 When not unloading
at dockside, the Aranui 3 ferries cargo on this motorized
barge. |
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Food and Drink
Although I have already referred to the meals ashore, no description
of a shipboard experience is complete without reference to the
many hours each day spent eating.
Breakfast was served buffet style between 6:30 a.m. and 8:30 a.m.
By 6:35 a.m. the majority of passengers were piling plates with
freshly sliced fruit, croissants, cheese and cold cuts, toast
and pastries. Eggs and bacon were available on request. Fresh
juices, tea and delicious café au lait washed it down.
My recommendation to coffee lovers is to bring along one's own
large insulated coffee mug; cups on the ship were small, requiring
many refills.
Lunch and dinner were announced on the PA system at noon and 7:30
p.m. It did not take long before all passengers were seated and
were serving themselves to the complimentary table wine (one bottle
per four people-any more had to be ordered from the Aranui
cellar). Both the red and white wines were French and served chilled,
at lunch and dinner.
There was no formal seat assignment. After a few days, table groupings
sorted themselves out-mostly by language. At our table of 12,
conversation bounced around quite effortlessly in English, French,
German, and Spanish.
If I had one quibble about the Aranui 3 experience it would
have to be the choice of food served. There was no menu; one ate
what one was served, although special needs were catered to. There
was a "muchness" in the food served-two large meals
for both lunch and dinner. Sometimes a soup, appetizer or salad
started the meal. A fish or meat with vegetables, rice, or pasta
followed. Dessert or pastry completed the meal. Coffee and tea
were taken one deck up in the lounge-most civilized. We Canadians,
as well as the Americans, and I suspect even some of the Europeans,
would have been just as happy with a salad or soup and a sandwich
at lunch.
No quibble however about the service. It was efficient and friendly
and always came with a smile from our youthful and attractive
servers.
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Odds and Sods
Another pleasant surprise was the complimentary laundry service.
On three specific days during the two weeks same-day laundry service
was provided. Underwear and dark colors we had to wash ourselves
in the laundromat on C Deck.
The Aranui boutique sold a wide array of reasonably priced
goods: books, film, sun-tan creams and other personal-care items,
extremely attractive T-shirts, swimwear, pareos, footwear and
snacks, including the world's most delicious chocolate cookies-Tim
Tams from Australia.
Yo-Yo's Bar on the Sun Deck offered "Happy Hour" several
times during the trip. This meant half price on the highly priced
tropical cocktails-consequently these were popular events. On
special occasions, such as departure and Party Nights, Yo-Yo the
bartender served his famous complimentary rum punches.
In closing, let me mention one last surprise about our experience
aboard the Aranui 3. After reading so much about the relaxed
nature of the South Pacific I somehow expected that this way of
life would have crept into the operation of the Aranui.
Not so. The ship actually ran with the efficiency of the Deutsche
Bahn. We left Papeete on time and returned two weeks later,
on schedule. Shore excursions, briefings, meals and even "Happy
Hours" were always on the dot.
As you would gather we thoroughly enjoyed Aranui 3 and
our first TravLtips experience. The transportation, transfers
(by Marama Tours) and land arrangements all worked smoothly. The
Mandarin hotel in Papeete is centrally located and quite adequate.
All the higher-priced hotels seem to be located outside the downtown
area that can be a mixed blessing. Eating in Papeete is extremely
expensive; we soon discovered the famous roulettes-food vans-on
Place Vaiete on the Harbor. They are inexpensive and clean and
the food is delicious and the ambience is delightful. On our day
of departure, having the whole day to fill, we left our luggage
at the hotel and took a Marama Tours' Circle Tour of Tahiti-a
very good value and most enjoyable.
After an eight-hour red-eye flight we landed at LAX-unfortunately,
all good things must come to an end.
George A. J. Baker, Victoria, BC.
Call the TravLtips Flushing office for reservations or a
brochure: 800-872-8584.
E-mail: info@travltips.com
Return to TravLtips.
11.06.06
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